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Hanoi & CultureA city in everyday details

Hanoi is more than a backdrop to lunch.

Water puppets, working streets and a city still making things: a different way to look at Hanoi, with food as a starting point rather than the whole story.

Hanoi water puppeteer Nguyen Thi Minh Loan holding a wooden dragon puppet
Nguyen Thi Minh Loan with a water puppet at her home in Hanoi.Photo: Slawek Kozdras. Source: National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Take this to the table

Look for the people and craft behind the scene. A city tells you more when you stop treating it as a checklist.

Start with a city that is still changing

A bowl can introduce you to a place, but it cannot explain everything about it. At Pho District, Hanoi appears in the names of several dishes. Those names are invitations to look further: at how people spend time, what they make and which traditions they choose to carry into the present.

National Geographic Traveller’s Hanoi guide describes a capital where old streets and contemporary design coexist. Its account moves between the Old Quarter, ceramics, fashion and the courtyards of the Temple of Literature. That range matters: Hanoi is a living city, not a preserved image of the past.

Reporting: National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Watch a craft, not just a performance

The same guide introduces northern Vietnam’s water-puppet tradition: lacquered wooden figures performing on a water stage, animated by puppeteers. Read about the makers as well as the show. Their work offers a different entry into culture from a list of monuments or famous dishes.

A useful question to take into any workshop, theatre or museum is simply: how was this made? Follow the material, the hand movement or the repeated gesture. The answer often gives you something specific to remember, rather than another photograph whose location you will later struggle to place.

Reporting: National Geographic Traveller (UK)

Look beneath the postcard

UNESCO’s account of the Thang Long Imperial Citadel gives Hanoi a much longer historical frame. The Ly dynasty built the citadel in the eleventh century above earlier remains. At the central citadel and the 18 Hoang Dieu archaeological site, successive layers record a place repeatedly used, rebuilt and reinterpreted. It entered the World Heritage List in 2010.

That changes how you might read a city street. The most visible building is not necessarily the beginning of the story. An archaeological site asks you to imagine what once occupied the same ground; a workshop shows how knowledge can survive through practice. One preserves physical traces, while the other keeps a skill in use.

For an afternoon of cultural discovery, we would choose one historical site and one encounter with a living craft, leaving time to reflect between them. Read the museum’s own interpretation, then listen to a maker describe their work. You come away with two kinds of knowledge: a sense of historical scale and an understanding of an individual’s choices.

Reporting: UNESCO World Heritage Centre

Make room for ordinary life

Our suggestion for curious travellers is to plan fewer stops and leave more time between them. Sit somewhere you are welcome, buy something if you use a café’s space, and ask before photographing a person at work. A market stall is a livelihood before it is a travel image.

Be equally cautious with the idea of a single ‘authentic’ Hanoi. One visitor’s nostalgic street scene may be someone else’s daily commute. Contemporary art, a new café and a family food business can all belong to the same city. You do not have to choose between taking tradition seriously and noticing change.

Read the place names on our menu

Back in Hammersmith, compare two different textures rather than ordering only the dish you already know. Our Bun Cha Ha Noi brings together chargrilled pork, herbs and vermicelli. Banh Cuon offers steamed rice rolls filled with minced pork, prawns and black fungus mushrooms. Both are on our menu; neither needs to stand for an entire city.

Or explore our Ha Noi La Vong Noodle: monkfish with turmeric, lemongrass, onions and dill. Ask what catches your attention first—the aroma, the soft noodles or the herbs. That is a useful habit for travelling too: notice a detail, ask a question, then let it lead you somewhere new.

Sources & further reading

Background reporting for this story. Menu recommendations and tasting suggestions are our own.

  1. A guide to Hanoi, Vietnam’s beguiling capitalNational Geographic Traveller (UK) · 11 April 2023
  2. Central Sector of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long — HanoiUNESCO World Heritage Centre · World Heritage listing · 2010

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